French Fried Vegetables By Grandma Rose

I have an issue with my batter sliding off my veggies
when I try to batter fry them. I think this recipe has just
the little tweak that keeps it on. Whipped Egg Whites.
It is a basic recipe with a great flavor that will complement
all veggies and dipping sauces.

For those of you that know me I will tweak it and make it my own.
This recipe came from a 1978 cook book given to me at an estate sale
of one of my neighbors last week.
it is called:
Grandma Rose's Book of
Sinfully Delicious
Snacks, Nibbles, Noshes, & other Delights
by Rose Naftalin

ingredients:
1 cup flour
1 tsp. salt
1/2 cup sugar
1 tsp. dill weed
3 eggs, separated
1/2 tsp. olive oil
1/2 cup beer
2 Tbsp. water

Directions:
In a bowl combine flour, salt, sugar & dill weed.
Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients.
Add the yolks & liquids, blend well.
Beat the egg whites until stiff, then fold into batter.

I fried up Thick slices of Ichiban Eggplant
Green Tomatoes, & a green bell pepper.

The batter worked equally well on all items and was
delicious with Catsup and a Greek cucumber sauce

What We're Growing ~ Tomatoes & Peppers

We thought we'd share our 2014 varieties of Tomatoes & Peppers with you
The garden has been ravaged by marauding goats, and is suffering from an overabundance of rain,
Back & for the Weather conditions from hot to cool &
I just can't seem to get rid of the weeds either.

Our tomatoes are doing great with little extra fertilization this year
I added Horse Manure into the soil in the fall only at a quarter coverage of the
entire garden space.
They did receive a side dressing after I cleared out the old chicken coop readying
them for the new chicks. So they got a little composted chicken manure (1 yr old)
as well as all the remanant eggs in the nesting boxes (enough for the entire row)

But anywho here's what we're growing.



http://parkseed.com/parks-whopper-cr-improved-tomato-seeds/p/05380-PK-P1/
Park's Whopper Tomato 65 days from setting out transplants. Indeterminate. The original Whopper was an American classic, and its successor is simply the home gardener's dream tomato: greater disease resistance, higher yields, a longer season, and better taste! These big, juicy, crack-resistant tomatoes, 4 inches or more across, ripen uniformly (even when the weather is overcast!) and finish 5 days sooner than the old Whopper. Then they keep right on coming in huge quantities until frost -- none of your smaller, greener end-of-season fruits here! And because they're meatier, you get even more succulent tomato flavor in every slice! Resistant to Verticillium Wilt, Root Knot Nematodes, Tobacco Mosaic Virus, and 2 strains of Fusarium Wilt.

http://www.tomatogrowers.com/ROMA-VF/productinfo/5168/
Roma VF #5168 One of the most popular varieties for paste, sauces and canning. Compact vines yield large harvests of 3 inch long, bright red fruit that may be pear-shaped or plum-shaped. Thick walled and solid with few seeds; slightly later than Roma with heavier foliage. Determinate. 78 days.

http://www.tomatogrowers.com/BLACK-KRIM/productinfo/4864/
Black Krim #4864 (30 seeds) Dark brown-red tomatoes are large, 10 to 12 ozs., and very richly flavored with just a hint of saltiness. Color is darker in hot weather, and fruit seems to set well even in the heat. Prone to cracking, but a very heavy producer. Heirloom from the Black Sea of Russia. Indeterminate. 75-90 days.

http://www.tomatogrowers.com/JUBILEE/productinfo/5312/
Jubilee #5312 (30 seeds) Plentiful harvests of bright golden-orange, large round fruit. Delicious taste and solid, smooth substance. Adds bright color to salads. This tomato's good looks and good taste make it a favorite with market gardeners. Indeterminate. 80 days.

I only have a couple Suddeth's Strain Beefsteaks for the late tomatoes
http://store.tomatofest.com/Brandywine_Sudduth_s_Strain_p/tf-0080.htm
Days: 85
Size: Indeterminate
Color: Pink
Season: Late-Season
Type: Heirloom


As for Peppers the goats pruned them by half but we're still harvesting Sweet Bananas
I plan to give them a boost with a light Epsom salt spray, starting a regimen every other week.
(Mixture 1 tsp to 32 oz of h2o) This gives them a little extra magnesium for higher
fruit production.

I only planted two varieties of peppers in 2014



http://www.tomatogrowers.com/SWEET-BANANA/productinfo/9316/
Sweet Banana #9316 (30 seeds) Profuse harvests of 5-1/2 to 6 inch long, tapered peppers that are wonderful fried or cut up into salads. Light green at first, they turn yellow and orange, and finally ripen to red. Compact plants. 72 days.


http://www.tomatogrowers.com/RED-BEAUTY-HYBRID/productinfo/9197/
Red Beauty Hybrid / Baron #9197 (30 seeds) A red bell pepper widely adapted to reliably turn red in almost any area of the country. Very thick-walled, heavy fruits are blocky, and about 4 inches long. Heavy yields of bright red sweet peppers. Resistant to tobacco mosaic virus. 68 days until mature green; red about 2 weeks later




Our Garden This Week
Needs Weeding
~V
Keep It Green

We're Growing Our Own

I thought I'd share a few ideas or how we planted our food garden this year.

This year we have two rows of beans planted different ways to see what works best.
Our Tri Color String Beans are planted in a double row, they were older seeds
so we had to go back after about a week & 1/2 and replanted in between with some
purple queen bush beans. We planted colored beans to make picking easier,
especially for the younger gardeners.

We also planted a row of Blue Lake Bush beans, in a single row.
Both are doing well

We planted Bush Pickler Cucumbers, at the front edge with Marigolds in between plants.
We already see the tiny cukes forming.

We planted Tomato transplants of Roma & Park's Whopper. The weather was so strange
that we lost a couple roma's and had to replace. We replaces with Black Krim
& Jubilee, tomatoes. All have caught up with one another and all are flowering
We should be picking before July 4th if we don't have another cool snap to stall growth.
We also will be tilling in some old eggs and nesting materials into the soil side
dressing the tomatoes with a dose of Calcium. We have used no additional fertilizers
on anything this year except Worm Castings.

We're looking up info on Black Krim & Jubilee to post this week, Just a little Tomato
FYI>

For peppers I backed down to only 2 varieties Sweet Bananas & Sweet Red Bells.
Due to unforeseen weather twists in the past I've had quite a loss & been
disappointed in the past. So I planted what I know everyone can eat or pickle.

I've planted the Ichiban Eggplants, because I love Eggplant and sneak it into
all sorts of dishes in the summer, and have even blended into my smoothies.
They are a beautiful plant with beautiful flowers, and with other varities
more beautiful colors even hot or fuschia pinky and white.

Detroit Red Beets, & Thumbellina Carrots as well as some Zucchini have just been
seeded in this past Thursday. As well as a variety of Sunflowers
Music Box, Valentine, Mixed Black Oil, & Alien Sunflowers. (I already see some of these
popping up out of the ground.

Here is a photo of my garden before I get to till this afternoon, if there is no more rain
and the winds keeps up to dry the garden out just a bit more.

So I've gotta get to making a quickie lunch so I can be ready to work this afternoon.

Oh wait we're going to pick up some local eggs from a neighbor too...
I'll take pics of the chickens and coop, I'd like to help him sell his eggs too
He also sold Daylilies at one point as well, Better carry my cash in case he's got a couple
earlies blooming...:)

Have a Nice Day
Here's My Garden



I'll definitely have to come back with an after picture when I get things cleaned up.

The weeds embarrass me...LOL

Incorporate Edibles ~ Harvest Health

Incorporating edibles into your existing plantings is not
Rocket Science.
You can easily find something that will work with what
you annually plant.

I harvested this from a commercial planting bed
where it was my intentions for the employees to
take part and enjoy the benefits of having fresh
Swiss Chard at their disposal.

I believe a little leaf harvesting would have encouraged
more top growth and there in a larger show in the beds.
Alas they didn't take to the idea.

Thanks for the Chard, My family loved it, cooked the first night
and the rest will be in my vitamin packed Green Smoothies
& Saladworks.

This is Rhubarb Swiss Chard
(Harvested)


Cooking Chard is as easy at any other Greens

I washed the chard 3X to remove any grit, creatures, etc.
then put it straight from the wash water into the cooking pot, don't shake the excess.
add about 2 teaspoons oil of choice (I use Olive, you can use Bacon Grease)
1 tablespoon sweetener of choice
Then let set for starting 20 mins on med high heat covered.
Flip the greens in the pot after the first time is up. Set for another 20 mins. covered.
then taste, everyone has a different preference to how done they like their greens,
just test a little along, cooking in 20 minute intervals until done to your liking.

Serve as a side to most any dish.

I also let about half drain in a colander flipping a few times until mostly dry.
Then I put into a plastic zip bag for storage for raw use.
(Tip: exhale a small breath into the bag before closing for greens to stay fresh longer)


Lettuce 'Valerie' in containers
(25 Gal)


Jerusalem Artichokes/Sunchokes in containers
(25 gal, very invasive in ground)


Herbs work excellently in containers
Here's our Sweet Basil getting started last month
we've used off it 3 times already


We're featuring #Cilantro this week on our #TwitterFeed so check it out
@HerbGir1972


Have a Great day
~V

New Chicks Interview 4/12/2014

ESS :Hello Bailey Hope you are well this a.m.?
Bailey :Yes I am well

ESS :We Hear you're getting possible Easter Chicks this year?
Bailey :They hatched from eggs in 20 days at my School.

ESS :How do you feel about baby chicks, what do you expect to do with them?
Bailey :I feel very very happy about the baby chicks. I expect to take good
care of them.

ESS : Do you expect to make them a pet?
Bailey : Yes, but we can't keep them out in the open or cats will get them.

ESS :What do chickens do for a garden?
Bailey :They Poop to make fertilizer, and scratch the soil loose.

ESS : What do Chickens Eat?
Bailey :They can eat about anything.

ESS : Will your chicks be omnivores or vegetarians?
Bailey :I will feed them Vegetables, so they will be like me vegetarians.

ESS: Thanks for a little time this morning, see you later.
Bailey: Hugs and Kisses to all

Everyday is Earth Day ~ Plant More Trees

(I hope you like my quicky art)

Are you aware of how many different ways Trees make likfe better?
Here is a list of just a few from

http://www.arborday.org/

Trees Fight Climate Change http://www.arborday.org/globalwarming/treesHelp.cfm (more here)
Saves Energy at your home
Greener Communities are cooler communities
Absorbing carbon dioxide and storeing carbon

National Tree Benefits Calculator https://www.arborday.org/calculator/index.cfm? (more here)
Make trees work for you & save you money

How to Plant Trees to Conserve Energy http://www.arborday.org/globalwarming/summerShade.cfm (more here)
Summer Shade
•you use less energy
•the utility company uses less energy
•less fossil fuel is consumed by the utility to create the energy
•less fossil fuel consumption means less carbon dioxide emissions

Winter Warmth
Plant an evergreen conifer windbreak on the north and northwest of your home to block cold winter winds.
Deciduous trees loose there leaves allowing a solarizing effect, the sun warms your home.

There is loads more information at this site I encourage you to get informed
research other fields of study in this same topic.
Be a tree Nerd, it's really cool

http://www.arborday.org/


I agree with these words but they are not entirely my own.
Keep it Green ~V

Awesome Edibles ~ Printable Garden Group Topic

This is from one of my past Garden Discussions
I hope you find this information useful

One of my missions is to get everyone to incorporate edibles
into their garden designs. Whether full scale beds or containers, or
single plant planting in pots.

Keep It Green
~V

Improving Your Garden Soil By Wilbur L. Bluhm

Improving Your Garden Soil
By Wilbur L. Bluhm
(Professor Emeritus, Oregon State University Extension Service, and Horticultural Consultant, Salem,
Oregon)

What can you do to improve your garden soil? The
question is as old as gardening itself.
From the time man first tilled the soil and planted seeds
he has tried to improve the performance of the plants he
grew. Most basic has been improvement of the soil.
Early settlers on the eastern shores of North America
received a good lesson when planting seeds and growing
plants. Native Americans showed them that by placing a
fish in a planting hole the plants would grow faster and
yield better. At the time neither knew what the fish in the
hole did, but it worked. They didn’t know the fish
carcass provided nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium,
calcium, sulfur, and other essential plant nutrients, often
deficient in many rain-soaked soils.
Our knowledge of soils and plant nutrition and growth
has come a long way during the past four centuries since
the fish-in-the-hole lesson.
The Soil That Is Ours
The soils we inherit from earlier generations are often
drastically altered from the original. Farming operations
before our homes were built began the soil’s change.
Native prairies and woodlands were converted to
agriculture. Or, if originally a forest, logging and other

operations had its impact on the soil. Both took their
toll, either in loss of soil structure and perhaps plant
nutrients, or compaction, or both.
Years later home construction became the second phase
in the change. Heavy equipment compaction layered the
soil below the surface. Existing soil was dug to make
room for basements or crawl spaces. This soil was then
spread over the existing, putting layer upon layer. Fill
soil was, and still is, often brought in, creating further
layering of the soil.
As a result few of us have the privilege of gardening in
native, virgin soil. The soil we have has commonly lost
much of its structure and ease of working. Some of us
are working subsoil, underlaid with good, fertile topsoil.
Often the soil’s fertility state has been changed, resulting
in nutrient imbalances, with increased acidity or alkalinity.
A redeeming feature is that there is much you can do to
improve the soil you have. A number of practices can
improve the soil and make it highly productive for you.
Soil Layering and Compacted Layers
First, let’s look at a compacted, layered soil that many of
us have. If at all practical, thoroughly mix the layers of
soil by spading or rototilling. If your lot or acreage is
sufficiently large, a deep-running plow or backhoe will
effectively break up compacted layers and mix the soil
layers. Farmers use “subsoilers” to break through
compacted soil layers, an alternative for larger lots.
The downside of equipment is that it also can create
compacted soil layers. Rototillers “beat” the soil, thus
compacting it, at the lowest extension of the tines.
However the compaction from rototilling is a “lesser
evil” than the needed breaking of a more severely
compacted layer and mixing of layers. Keep in mind that
a rototiller never tills as deeply as it appears. Therefore
the larger the rototiller the more effective it will be.
Plows and most other equipment also tend to create
compacted layers at the lowest depth of their
penetration. Again, the newly created compacted layer is
seldom as severe as the one for which the equipment is
used.
Soil, when in distinct layers, frequently has another
problem. Layering of soil, especially when done by man,
often creates drainage problems. Downward water
movement in soil is commonly impeded when soil is
artificially put into layers. Thus the importance of mixing
the layers of soil.
Soil Drainage
Poor drainage greatly restricts plant growth and what
plants you can grow. Test the drainage of your soil by
digging one or more holes to a depth of 2 to 3 feet. Fill
the hole(s) with water. The water should disappear
within 30 minutes or an hour. If it does not disappear
within 24 hours, only shallow rooted plants will survive.
Don’t confuse slope with good drainage. A sloping soil
may be poorly drained internally. Use the test above to

know for sure if your sloping soil has adequate drainage.
The poor drainage of many garden soils is due to layering
of soils and to compacted soil layers. Corrective
measures discussed previously can correct many such
problems.
Soil drainage can be improved by tiling, or sometimes
with “French drains,” ditches a foot or more deep filled
with sand and/or small gravel with an outlet for the water
to drain away. If you have a soil drainage problem
contact your local university Extension office, Natural
Resources and Conservation Service (USDA) office, or
business specializing in drainage problems for
information and assistance.
Adding Soil
Bringing in soil is sometimes a solution to problems of
low lying areas or providing a productive soil over one
that is filled with rocks, debris, or other materials. It
may help improve a soil of extremely poor structure or
heavy texture, high in clay and poorly drained. To avoid
creating layers, thoroughly mix the added soil with the
top six inches or more of the soil below.
Be sure to acquire good quality soil. Much available
“topsoil” is the topsoil from the bottom of a hole, and is
of poor quality. In most cases the best soil to acquire is
that which is most like what you now have, even with its
faults, to avoid layering. Topsoil from nearby
excavations for home, business, industrial, or other
construction is a good place to start your search for a

source of good soil. In any case, try to acquire soil that is
from the surface 12 inches, more or less.
Enhancing Your Existing Soil
“My garden soil is a poor, clay soil,” is an all too
common complaint. Often poor soil structure is mistaken
for high clay content. The soil is hard, crusty, and
difficult to work. Some soils are “loose” and seem to
have no body or structure. The solution is to add a good
soil amendment to improve the soil structure.
First, let’s allay some misconceptions about clay soils.
Few, if any, soils are pure clay. Some are high in clay,
and nearly every soil, except pure sand, has some clay in
it. Clay is a very important soil component. It imparts
many desirable qualities to the soil. Without clay a soil is
likely to be less fertile, even infertile, and added nutrients
are readily leached from the soil. Clay does this because
of its cation, pronounced cat-ion, exchange capacity, an
electrical process not unlike your car battery with its plus
(+) and minus (-) charges, that attracts plant nutrients and
holds them from leaching out of the soil.
In the minds of some the solution to a soil high in clay is
to add sand. This, too, is not without problems. Add the
right amount of sand and you will have made great
concrete. The right amount of sand has to be determined
for each site. There is no one easy answer to this. So, in
most cases, sand is not the answer.
How can you know if you have a clay soil? When the
soil is rather wet, form a ball an inch or two in diameter.

If the ball is rather sticky it may be due to clay. Then,
with the ball between your thumb and forefinger, make a
continuous thin ribbon about 1/8 inch thick. If the ribbon
sticks together its full length the soil clay content is
relatively high. If the ribbon breaks or crumbles after it
is an inch, more or less, long you probably do not have a
clay soil. It is likely a desirable silt loam, loam, or clay
loam soil. If it crumbles immediately as it leaves your
fingers, your soil is still lower in clay and higher in silt
and sand content. This procedure may take a little
practice before it works well for you.
Benefits of Organic Matter
Raw organic matter offers limited benefits. It’s in its
decomposition that the benefits occur. Many products
are formed within the soil that function to improve soil
structure, aeration, water-holding capacity, and enhance
plant nutrition. Partially decomposed organic matter is
often called “humus”, the merits of which are known by
many people.
Adding organic matter to your soil is an excellent solution
to poor structure, and a much better alternative than
sand. It also behaves much like the clay particles as
described previously, enhancing soil fertility, without the
structural problems of some heavy clay soils. Organic
matter has an exchange capacity that often exceeds that
of a clay soil. One of greatest values in mixing organic
materials into a soil is its effect on soil structure. Organic
material itself, or in its decomposition, binds soil particles
together to form larger particles. This is especially
important in heavier soils that are higher in clay. This

improves the soil’s drainage ability and air holding
capacity, both important for plant growth. The organic
material itself, and the resulting effects of its
decomposition on soil, improves the soil’s tilth.
Organic material has great water holding capacity. So,
while it improves drainage it also holds more water,
keeping the soil moist longer for plant growth.
In decomposition of organic matter the soil microorganism
– bacteria, molds, actinomycetes, etc. –
population increases manyfold, for it is they who are
responsible for the decomposition. This releases
nutrients from the organic matter, also benefiting plants,
and provides the many other benefits from using organic
matter.
Plants themselves contribute organic matter to the soil.
With a constant flux of new roots being formed and old
roots dying organic matter is added. However, it’s a
relatively low amount with continual tilling of the soil for
planting and replanting. Continuous grass growth over
many years may add 5% to the soil’s original organic
matter content, which is a significant amount.
Organic matter will benefit most soils, regardless of
texture or structure.
Sources of Organic Materials
Almost every community offers its unique types of
organic materials. In forested areas sawdust and
barkdust are readily available. Grain straw is available in

most communities. Sugar cane, coconut, rice, nut, and
other agricultural industries produce useful by-products.
Legume hays are not only good sources of organic
matter, but also of plant nutrients. Leaf mold, the
partially decayed leaves from your trees or from the
forest floor, has long been a favorite organic material.
Garden waste and other composts have become much
more available in recent years and, when well prepared,
are free of weed seeds and plant pathogens. Of course,
each of us can have readily made compost made from
our lawn clippings, tree leaves, garden and kitchen
wastes, and other materials.
Peat, aka peat moss, has been a standard organic source.
It is still the same good product as in the past, but may
occasionally contain weed seeds or pathogens, depending
upon method of harvesting. Peat decomposes more
slowly than most other organic sources and thus may
give its effects comparably longer.
Animal manures have for years been among the best
organic sources. While providing organic matter they
can also be a good source of plant nutrients. Partially
decomposed “old manure” is a good source of organic
matter but inferior to resh manure in plant nutrients. The
fear of “burning” with fresh manure is easily offset by
applying less of the better product. Unfortunately
manure may contain numerous weed seeds, including
those of noxious weeds.
When purchasing manure inspect carefully for unwanted
problems. One, garden centipedes (symphyllans),
introduced into a soil can cause tremendous damage for

years to come by feeding on plant roots. It’s best to
avoid manure stored for any length of time on the
ground. Older manures are more likely to come with
these problems.
Organic materials high in lignin, such as wood products,
straw, grass hay, and hulls, can deplete soil nitrogen
during their decomposition. Supplemented nitrogen,
supplied by a fertilizer relatively high in nitrogen, will
correct the deficiency. Wood products take up to four
years of decomposition for the “softwoods” – pine, fir,
spruce, etc. – before a nitrogen balance is reached in the
soil. Hardwoods – oak, maple, beech, etc. – take about
half this amount of time for decomposition. This is
usually not a problem with peat since it naturally contains
some nitrogen, or with composts, leaf mold, manures,
and other such sources.
Dealing With Sandy Soils
A truly sandy soil will feel gritty when rubbed between
the fingers. Most sandy soils have at least a little clay
and silt in them, but insufficient amounts of clay,
especially, to hold nutrients and water. Structure of
sandy soils may be either loose or, with an insufficient or
“wrong” amount of smaller particles and organic matter,
hard and crusty and impenetrable to water when dry.
They are inherently low in plant nutrients and good tilth.
Sandy soils can be much improved by “diluting” with
good soil and/or organic matter. The amendment(s)
should be thoroughly worked into the top six or more
inches of the soil, as deeply as possible.

It is wrong to assume that a sandy soil is well drained. If
the sand is underlaid by a compacted layer drainage can
be a serious problem.
Generally, in sandy soils fertilizer should be applied in
lesser amounts but more frequently to avoid loss by
leaching and contaminating ground water. This is more
important with water-soluble inorganic than organic
fertilizers.
Soil Testing
Testing your soil is a good way to determine the pH
(acidity or alkalinity), need for pH correction, and
nutrient content of your soil, with suggestions. A good
soil sample for testing is a composite of samples taken
throughout your garden, then thorougly mixed together
when sufficiently dry by pouring back and forth from one
clean bucket to another. Follow all instructions of the
testing laboratory to which you will submit your soil
sample. One thing you will not learn about your soil from
the test is the soil’s texture, that is, if it is a clay, clay
loam, loam, etc. A few labs, however, can make a
texture test for you for an additional fee.
Generally Speaking
Organic matter will do as much, or more, to improve a
given soil than most any other practice. Worked deeply
into the soil its effects can often be seen for years to
follow. The only real “downside” in using organic matter
is the nitrogen imbalance that high lignin materials can

present, and the potential for insect, weed, and disease
problems of some organic sources. Seldom do the
problems outweigh the benefits.
Keep in mind that working a soil when it is excessively
wet or when excessively dry should be avoided. When
too wet the soil structure is broken down, causing
puddling or “plastic remolding.” When too dry the soil is
ground or pulverized into dust, also causing a breakdown
of structure. In between lies a rather narrow range of
wetness for optimal cultivation of the soil.
Improving your soil – make it enjoyable and watch your
garden grow!

Tall Talk Article by Wilbur Bluhm - March, 2002 file:///C:/Data/WebPages/TBIS-web/tt0302b.html
1-11 of 11 1/10/2012 11:34 AM

These are not my words but are my thoughts :)
Have a nice day

Happy 2014

Happy New Year to everyone
We Wish You Good Fortune & Good Health.

Did you become resolute about something new,
or are you making the same resolutions as New Year's Past?

We have resolved to bring Hope to the forefront in our Community.



Giving Hope to others & greening it forward
will in turn make things better for more and more folks.

I speak to people at times and the convenience of things today
have blinded and even consumed some people's lives. Even if I
reopen their eyes for just a moment, it sets a spark that maybe
can be fanned into a flame. If only one person goes forward and
makes a simple change they'll make more because it makes them
feel good too.

Gardening is a simple language, that has but one result, Pleasure.
Food & Fragrance are two of the most fulfilling senses we have.
So let's grow better food for our bodies, by ourselves.
The Earth is ours, it can feed us, house us, heal us, please us.
Let's make a conscious effort to not Kill it.
Teach what you know, if you know how to grow great tomatoes, teach someone
else to do it too. Also, why it is better to grow things the right way.
No chemicals, Feed The Soil, Use non GMO items. Why do they have to keep breeding
new hybrids??? The Heirlooms are still around, still growing, and used as
bases for hybrid plants, why...Because they are a good pure thing.
Grow things the way it is intended in their original form.

Children are our Hope, it is our responsibility to teach them.
If they are taught in a lab, they will continue the cycle of destruction.
Take them outside, put their hands in the dirt, there is a connection that
needs to ne made. Technology in different forms are stealing our children away from us.
Yes they can find out all sorts of information at just a touch, but they
are losing touch. We need a true New Generation of young people, versed in the
art of balance. Green, Sustainable practices do create balanced, caring children.

So the #GreenKids of today will be
"Greening it Back by Greening it Forward."
They are our 'New Hope' for a better future.
Let's all stick together and teach them.

I am but one person, with one voice, but I believe
my Hope will spread through my Free Seminars for the kids.
Even if it's a trickle effect, Kids influence their Parents
with each child I touch with our message I know at least 2 folks
are impacted even if just a small way. Encouraged to become
and Advocate for a Better Quality of Life in all ways.

Our goal is to get everyone to try & share (Green it Forward) to 3 people each day.
It's not a challenge it's a goal.
It's even easy if you share or retweet any of our social media messages.
Or even become affiliated as a supporter in some way.
We're only moving up come with us Please.

Have a Great Weekend
Victoria ~ EarthSource Services ~#GreenKids

Please Participate in our Fundraiser

We are desperately trying to keep our #GreenKids Free Programs Free.
But it will take some Generous folks to contribute to our efforts
Please share this with everyone and encourage them to do the same.
If we reach our goal it should fund us for another year.
It really is a small amount considering the scope of the results.
Please check out our social connections at
Twitter ~ @HerbGir1972 & @EssSc7
Facebook ~ http://www.facebook.com/earthsourceservicessc7
K+ on Klout ~ Victoria Meetze

Scroll thru and see what we're about
and Remember the #GreenKids & EarthSource Services needs your help

This fundraiser needs to have at least 20 shirts ordered to print
and 500 is our goal.
Thanks for your time and consideration of our efforts.
PLease purchase at least one(1) tee today


https://www.booster.com/ug-13875204664578543

If you'd simply like to "DONATE" check out our Sponsorship Levels note here:

https://www.facebook.com/notes/earthsource-services/earthsourceservices-greenkids-sponsor-levels/613922642001289

What are #GreenKids? (Happier, Healthier, Caring)

https://www.facebook.com/notes/earthsource-services/what-are-greenkids-happier-healthier-caring/557649750961912

Potato Pone

Although it's not the prettiest gal on the block
She sure is a sweet, tasty treat.

This recipe has variations from Africa, West India, Jamaica, Belize, & Europe
It is worth a research to taste them all.

This is our families' favorite Sweet Potato Pone recipe


Ingredients:
2 cans sweet potatoes (29 oz.)
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 egg
1 stick of butter
2 tablespoons vanilla
1 1/4 cups of flour
1/2 cup of raisins



Directions:
Drain potatoes.
Put in mixer bowl and add butter, sugar, egg vanilla.
Gradually add flour. When mixed, stir in the raisins.
Put into a 9 X 13 greased baking dish.
Bake for 30 to 40 minutes at 400 degrees until the edges are light brown and is set.

Interesting Find ~ Japanese Turf Lily

Just for fun this morning I picked up my favorite Herbal Medicine book (The Way of Herbs by: Michael Tierra, C.A., N.D.) and flipped open to the first page I found and read....(quoted below)
It was a surprisingly common plant found in many gardens and yards, that usually ends up being quite abundant, with little care or maintenance.

Japanese Lily Turf (creeping lily root, dwarf lilyturf)
Ophiopogon japonicas
Liliaceae



Parts used: Bulbs
Energy & Flavor: Sweet to slightly bitter, slightly cool
Systems affected: Heart, lungs, stomach
Biochemical constituants: Ruscogenin (steroid sapogenin), siterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol-D-glucoside,
ophioside, sugars, mucilage
Properties: Demulcent, nutrient tonic, Yin tonic

This is another grasslike ornamental grown in many gardens throughout the world. Its tonic therapeutic values make it worth pointing out. Since the flavor of these little bulbets is not at all unpleasant, it is a good idea to consider a few on them in soups for their therapeutic value.
Japanese turf lily is use4d for any symptoms associated with dryness, lack of vital fluids, including general depletion of bodily fluids, dryness of the heart, skin, & dry stool. It is especially useful for dry cough, asthma or spitting of blood.
Because of its deep nourishing properties, it gives one a sense of inner well-being, strength, & thus will lessen palpitations, insomnia, & general paranoia & fearfulness.
It is contraindicated when one has a particular tendency towards cold sensitivity, diarrhea or loose stools. However the contraindication is only in regard to long term use.



Disclaimer:
The information herin this blog entry is from the above said source. I do not recommend the practice of using herbal medicines without the consultation of your medical practitioner. Although I do condone use of natural medicinals in place of chemical products. This is for informative and entertainment purposes only the blogwriter is not liable for any misuse of informations provided.

I do recommend reaearching your health condition and searching for helpful herbal remedies. In every culture, in every climate, in every continent, herbal relief for ecological niches common ailments are usually found all around you. It is a God given pharmacy, don't misuse what resources you have but know what is there. It is the way things are supposed to be, we have been provided for, and yet we destroy what has been given to us and remedies that are rightfully ours. Become an advocate for your self, your health, your planet.

Have a Great Week
~V

Saying Good Bye to Summer

2013 has been an unexpectedly mild summer for us here in South Carolina. Only reaching triple digits in the way of Heat index 2 times I believe. Much more moisture than most years, which started out great but did turn detrimental for some crops as it continued with gully washing force. One day by the debris on some neighbors trees in a low spot, it rose about 30 inches in the creek between two homes, took the upper gravel driveway and delivered it to the other side of the road some 100 feet away.

From Harvesting and learning new ways to use Semi Exotic but common Summer Harvests Like Turkey & Mission Figs



By the way all that wasn't jarred was eaten in Homemade Fig Newtons, and dried Figs (The little one just loved them)

We have had some beautiful Full Moons (Blue Moon 8/21/13)



And Spectacular Skyscapes



Of Course there was much color everywhere (This is the slightest sampling of the photographs I got to take this year.) I was blessed with multiple sprains and twists so I didn't get to do much more, Fall clean up is going to be a clearout.



So today I say Good bye to Summer, Fall has felt like it has snuck in here for the last couple days.
A little precipitation this weekend would be perfect, as it has been a little on the dry side.

It has been reported that Snakes are plentiful, and here in the end of the summer the insect critters have been too. (Although some are about 2 months behind schedule...aka: June Bugs in August) Wasps, Yellow Jackets, and bees have been on the down low, and we're just getting to see some butterflies in more numbers.

I hope you enjoy this taste of what I get to live with.
Looking back over my photographs I am truly blessed.

Victoria Meetze/EarthSource Services
http://www.facebook.com/EarthSourceServicesSC7

Fried Green Tomatoes

There is nothing like the
impatient gardener who just
has to pick something.
(pointing thumb at self)
But one delicious unripened treat is

Fried Green Tomatoes
I do not always have the ingredients on
my recipie cards so there is loads of
improvision in my kitchen.
Today was one of those days

There are oodles of recipies out there
it's a simple thing to make.
Mine had an italian twist today

1/2 c italian bread crumbs
3/4 c flour
1/4 c parmasean chz
4 med green Cherokee Purple tomatoes

Step 1)
choose smooth green fruit, wash & pat dry



Step 2)
Slice thin slices, leaving skin intact



Step 3)
Dredge in desired coating



Step 4)
Fry until golden brown
bread crumbs and chz turn very dark and crisp, Watch closely



Just thought I'd share the first ever Fried Green Tomatoes eaten by my youngest daughter.

Here is Grandmas Recipie
Grandma's Fried Green Tomatoes

3 green tomatoes
Salt & Pepper to taste
Cornmeal
Oil

Wash and dry tomatoes. Slice with peels thin but thick enough to hold together. Heat 1-2"oil in a large skillet to sizzling. Season both sides and dredge in meal. Lay in skillet without sides touching-don't crowd them and fry brown, flip them over and cook them brown on the other side. Drain well on a rack over a papered sheet.
**Flour may be used in place if desired**.
http://www.nancyskitchen.com/2011Recipes/Oct/grandmas-fried-green-tomatoes-recipe.html

Next week we will be picking old tyme yellow plums.

I Wormapost

I cannot tell you how much organic refuse we create in this day at my household.
In an attempt to eat better, we do make a fair amount of refuse.
In having to peel certain superstore purchased foods due to commercial coatings.
But alas I have employed several thousand refuse workers to tend to this problem.
Thankfully I came into a broken large chest style freezer.
Here is where the magic takes place.
I simply feed my workers in a box formation from corner to corner covering each weeks
organic refuse.
These amazing creatures supply me with plenty of nutrient rich material for all my
gardening needs.

It is possibly the easiest and quickest way to recycle into usable composted material.
If you have leaves and grass clippings, they love them too.
I even add a little bit of shredded black and white newspaper from time to time to buffer the
wettness. It mseems to keep things at a consistant state and adds a little bulk.
I have a complete a - z listing of Composting Do's and Donts
I wouldn't give anything to my worms you couldn't regualrly compost safely.

My worms are getting a kick this week with a little starbucks coffee grounds.
I intend to give them a 25 gallon bucket of houre manure too.
I like to give things a good feed inthe beginning of July, to make them stronger for the
harsher, everchanging weathers of SC.

check out this site for that information
http://buffy6900.tripod.com/id10.html

Weak Wormy Tea is excellent for watering your seedlings. Make them happy from the start

I am going to try and get a pic to add here before the day is through ;)

Green It Forward
EarthSource Services
Victoria

Blueberries are a Win Win planting choice

Growing Blueberries ~ As a Hedge

Everconsidered an edible hedgerow?
Blueberries are perfect, you get 4 seasons of interest, wildlife food, early flowers for bees, and best of all an healthy treat for you.
Planting in a row also allows you to easily cover if you wish to do so to protect from the birds. (although if you plant an entire hedge there should be enough for all)
http://www.plantra.com/Blueberry-Netting
Choose your varieties for your spaces and or containers. They range in heights from 18 - 24 inches tall to over 8 feet.
Check with your local extension office for the varieties that grow best in your region.
Blueberries are naturally pest resistant so they are great for growing organically.
They do like acidy soil Pine Straw is a way to make the soil perfect organically as it breaks down.

Most bluberries bloom white but I know of one variety we added to our double lined patch that blooms a pink color. 'Sunshine Blue' it is also supposed to be a bit more compact. they have withstood alot of dry times already since planting in May/Mothers Day I am even giving one a try in a porch container to accompany my other small variety 'Top Hat.'



The foilage in the winter is sparce and twiggy but mine never loose all of their leaves.
Summer they bush out and are quite dense. one practice to add to maintenance each year. Remove dead or damaged branches. Blueberries bear in the summer, I try to make sure fruit is really plump by giving supplemental water at least every other day.



Fall you get amazing colors and in a mass hedge planting this can be absolutely stunning.
If you want to grow your stand after you see how quick and easy blueberries are to grow. You can dig new rooted shoots from the base of the plant in the winter (we do it about Feburary here in SC)
I hope this inspires you to plant a couple Blueberries, they are easily incorporated into landscaping, even existing planting beds.



Thank You for taking the time to check out this post
Green It Forward. EarthSource Services ~Victoria
(photos in the blog are not mine)

Feeling A Little Blue ~ 2 Blueberry Recipies

Here are two awesome Seasonal Recipies
Nothing beats fresh fruit



Blueberry Yum Yum



Crust:
• 1 cup flour
• 1 stick margarine
• 1 cup chopped nuts
Filling:
• 8 ounce cream cheese,softened
• 8 ounces whipped topping
• 1 cup sugar
Topping:
• 2 cups fresh SC blueberries
• 1/2 cup water
• 1 cup sugar
• 1/4 cup cornstarch, mix with water


Mix ingredients for crust.

Press into a 13 x 9-inch baking dish. Bake at 350F. for 20 minutes. Let cool.

Mix cream cheese and sugar for filling.

Add whipped topping. Spread on cooled crust.

Cook berries, sugar and water approximately 15 minutes.

Add cornstarch and cook until blueberries thicken.

Cool mixture. Spread on top of cream cheese mixture. Refrigerate.I find this dessert is best when left to sit for at least 6 hours before serving.

Updated with Step by Step Pictures July 4th, 2013 1:05a.m. est ~Victoria






BERRY BLONDIES

16 blondies at 38 cents each

6 oz good quality or premium white chocolate, chopped
5 T unsalted butter, cut into pieces
2 eggs
2/3 C sugar
1 teas vanilla extract
1 1/3 C all purpose flour
1 teas baking powder
½ teas salt
1 C fresh raspberries
1 C fresh blueberries


Position rack in middle of oven. Heat to 325. Line 9x9x2 inch square
baking pan with foil; grease

In metal bowl, set over saucepan of barely simmering water, melt white
chocolate and butter, stirring until smooth. Let cool to room temp

In large bowl, beat eggs, sugar, vanilla on medium speed until
thickened and pale, about 3 mins. On low, gradually beat in chocolate mixture.
Into a bowl, sift flour, baking powder, salt. Beat into chocolate
mixture until combined. Spread evenly in prepared pan. Sprinkle with
berries.

Bake in middle of 325 oven until top is very lightly browned but center
still soft when lightly pressed, 45 to 50 mins. Let cool completely in
pan on rack. Blondies are easiest to cut if chilled, but serve at room
temp for best flavor