Improving Your Garden Soil By Wilbur L. Bluhm

Improving Your Garden Soil
By Wilbur L. Bluhm
(Professor Emeritus, Oregon State University Extension Service, and Horticultural Consultant, Salem,
Oregon)

What can you do to improve your garden soil? The
question is as old as gardening itself.
From the time man first tilled the soil and planted seeds
he has tried to improve the performance of the plants he
grew. Most basic has been improvement of the soil.
Early settlers on the eastern shores of North America
received a good lesson when planting seeds and growing
plants. Native Americans showed them that by placing a
fish in a planting hole the plants would grow faster and
yield better. At the time neither knew what the fish in the
hole did, but it worked. They didn’t know the fish
carcass provided nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium,
calcium, sulfur, and other essential plant nutrients, often
deficient in many rain-soaked soils.
Our knowledge of soils and plant nutrition and growth
has come a long way during the past four centuries since
the fish-in-the-hole lesson.
The Soil That Is Ours
The soils we inherit from earlier generations are often
drastically altered from the original. Farming operations
before our homes were built began the soil’s change.
Native prairies and woodlands were converted to
agriculture. Or, if originally a forest, logging and other

operations had its impact on the soil. Both took their
toll, either in loss of soil structure and perhaps plant
nutrients, or compaction, or both.
Years later home construction became the second phase
in the change. Heavy equipment compaction layered the
soil below the surface. Existing soil was dug to make
room for basements or crawl spaces. This soil was then
spread over the existing, putting layer upon layer. Fill
soil was, and still is, often brought in, creating further
layering of the soil.
As a result few of us have the privilege of gardening in
native, virgin soil. The soil we have has commonly lost
much of its structure and ease of working. Some of us
are working subsoil, underlaid with good, fertile topsoil.
Often the soil’s fertility state has been changed, resulting
in nutrient imbalances, with increased acidity or alkalinity.
A redeeming feature is that there is much you can do to
improve the soil you have. A number of practices can
improve the soil and make it highly productive for you.
Soil Layering and Compacted Layers
First, let’s look at a compacted, layered soil that many of
us have. If at all practical, thoroughly mix the layers of
soil by spading or rototilling. If your lot or acreage is
sufficiently large, a deep-running plow or backhoe will
effectively break up compacted layers and mix the soil
layers. Farmers use “subsoilers” to break through
compacted soil layers, an alternative for larger lots.
The downside of equipment is that it also can create
compacted soil layers. Rototillers “beat” the soil, thus
compacting it, at the lowest extension of the tines.
However the compaction from rototilling is a “lesser
evil” than the needed breaking of a more severely
compacted layer and mixing of layers. Keep in mind that
a rototiller never tills as deeply as it appears. Therefore
the larger the rototiller the more effective it will be.
Plows and most other equipment also tend to create
compacted layers at the lowest depth of their
penetration. Again, the newly created compacted layer is
seldom as severe as the one for which the equipment is
used.
Soil, when in distinct layers, frequently has another
problem. Layering of soil, especially when done by man,
often creates drainage problems. Downward water
movement in soil is commonly impeded when soil is
artificially put into layers. Thus the importance of mixing
the layers of soil.
Soil Drainage
Poor drainage greatly restricts plant growth and what
plants you can grow. Test the drainage of your soil by
digging one or more holes to a depth of 2 to 3 feet. Fill
the hole(s) with water. The water should disappear
within 30 minutes or an hour. If it does not disappear
within 24 hours, only shallow rooted plants will survive.
Don’t confuse slope with good drainage. A sloping soil
may be poorly drained internally. Use the test above to

know for sure if your sloping soil has adequate drainage.
The poor drainage of many garden soils is due to layering
of soils and to compacted soil layers. Corrective
measures discussed previously can correct many such
problems.
Soil drainage can be improved by tiling, or sometimes
with “French drains,” ditches a foot or more deep filled
with sand and/or small gravel with an outlet for the water
to drain away. If you have a soil drainage problem
contact your local university Extension office, Natural
Resources and Conservation Service (USDA) office, or
business specializing in drainage problems for
information and assistance.
Adding Soil
Bringing in soil is sometimes a solution to problems of
low lying areas or providing a productive soil over one
that is filled with rocks, debris, or other materials. It
may help improve a soil of extremely poor structure or
heavy texture, high in clay and poorly drained. To avoid
creating layers, thoroughly mix the added soil with the
top six inches or more of the soil below.
Be sure to acquire good quality soil. Much available
“topsoil” is the topsoil from the bottom of a hole, and is
of poor quality. In most cases the best soil to acquire is
that which is most like what you now have, even with its
faults, to avoid layering. Topsoil from nearby
excavations for home, business, industrial, or other
construction is a good place to start your search for a

source of good soil. In any case, try to acquire soil that is
from the surface 12 inches, more or less.
Enhancing Your Existing Soil
“My garden soil is a poor, clay soil,” is an all too
common complaint. Often poor soil structure is mistaken
for high clay content. The soil is hard, crusty, and
difficult to work. Some soils are “loose” and seem to
have no body or structure. The solution is to add a good
soil amendment to improve the soil structure.
First, let’s allay some misconceptions about clay soils.
Few, if any, soils are pure clay. Some are high in clay,
and nearly every soil, except pure sand, has some clay in
it. Clay is a very important soil component. It imparts
many desirable qualities to the soil. Without clay a soil is
likely to be less fertile, even infertile, and added nutrients
are readily leached from the soil. Clay does this because
of its cation, pronounced cat-ion, exchange capacity, an
electrical process not unlike your car battery with its plus
(+) and minus (-) charges, that attracts plant nutrients and
holds them from leaching out of the soil.
In the minds of some the solution to a soil high in clay is
to add sand. This, too, is not without problems. Add the
right amount of sand and you will have made great
concrete. The right amount of sand has to be determined
for each site. There is no one easy answer to this. So, in
most cases, sand is not the answer.
How can you know if you have a clay soil? When the
soil is rather wet, form a ball an inch or two in diameter.

If the ball is rather sticky it may be due to clay. Then,
with the ball between your thumb and forefinger, make a
continuous thin ribbon about 1/8 inch thick. If the ribbon
sticks together its full length the soil clay content is
relatively high. If the ribbon breaks or crumbles after it
is an inch, more or less, long you probably do not have a
clay soil. It is likely a desirable silt loam, loam, or clay
loam soil. If it crumbles immediately as it leaves your
fingers, your soil is still lower in clay and higher in silt
and sand content. This procedure may take a little
practice before it works well for you.
Benefits of Organic Matter
Raw organic matter offers limited benefits. It’s in its
decomposition that the benefits occur. Many products
are formed within the soil that function to improve soil
structure, aeration, water-holding capacity, and enhance
plant nutrition. Partially decomposed organic matter is
often called “humus”, the merits of which are known by
many people.
Adding organic matter to your soil is an excellent solution
to poor structure, and a much better alternative than
sand. It also behaves much like the clay particles as
described previously, enhancing soil fertility, without the
structural problems of some heavy clay soils. Organic
matter has an exchange capacity that often exceeds that
of a clay soil. One of greatest values in mixing organic
materials into a soil is its effect on soil structure. Organic
material itself, or in its decomposition, binds soil particles
together to form larger particles. This is especially
important in heavier soils that are higher in clay. This

improves the soil’s drainage ability and air holding
capacity, both important for plant growth. The organic
material itself, and the resulting effects of its
decomposition on soil, improves the soil’s tilth.
Organic material has great water holding capacity. So,
while it improves drainage it also holds more water,
keeping the soil moist longer for plant growth.
In decomposition of organic matter the soil microorganism
– bacteria, molds, actinomycetes, etc. –
population increases manyfold, for it is they who are
responsible for the decomposition. This releases
nutrients from the organic matter, also benefiting plants,
and provides the many other benefits from using organic
matter.
Plants themselves contribute organic matter to the soil.
With a constant flux of new roots being formed and old
roots dying organic matter is added. However, it’s a
relatively low amount with continual tilling of the soil for
planting and replanting. Continuous grass growth over
many years may add 5% to the soil’s original organic
matter content, which is a significant amount.
Organic matter will benefit most soils, regardless of
texture or structure.
Sources of Organic Materials
Almost every community offers its unique types of
organic materials. In forested areas sawdust and
barkdust are readily available. Grain straw is available in

most communities. Sugar cane, coconut, rice, nut, and
other agricultural industries produce useful by-products.
Legume hays are not only good sources of organic
matter, but also of plant nutrients. Leaf mold, the
partially decayed leaves from your trees or from the
forest floor, has long been a favorite organic material.
Garden waste and other composts have become much
more available in recent years and, when well prepared,
are free of weed seeds and plant pathogens. Of course,
each of us can have readily made compost made from
our lawn clippings, tree leaves, garden and kitchen
wastes, and other materials.
Peat, aka peat moss, has been a standard organic source.
It is still the same good product as in the past, but may
occasionally contain weed seeds or pathogens, depending
upon method of harvesting. Peat decomposes more
slowly than most other organic sources and thus may
give its effects comparably longer.
Animal manures have for years been among the best
organic sources. While providing organic matter they
can also be a good source of plant nutrients. Partially
decomposed “old manure” is a good source of organic
matter but inferior to resh manure in plant nutrients. The
fear of “burning” with fresh manure is easily offset by
applying less of the better product. Unfortunately
manure may contain numerous weed seeds, including
those of noxious weeds.
When purchasing manure inspect carefully for unwanted
problems. One, garden centipedes (symphyllans),
introduced into a soil can cause tremendous damage for

years to come by feeding on plant roots. It’s best to
avoid manure stored for any length of time on the
ground. Older manures are more likely to come with
these problems.
Organic materials high in lignin, such as wood products,
straw, grass hay, and hulls, can deplete soil nitrogen
during their decomposition. Supplemented nitrogen,
supplied by a fertilizer relatively high in nitrogen, will
correct the deficiency. Wood products take up to four
years of decomposition for the “softwoods” – pine, fir,
spruce, etc. – before a nitrogen balance is reached in the
soil. Hardwoods – oak, maple, beech, etc. – take about
half this amount of time for decomposition. This is
usually not a problem with peat since it naturally contains
some nitrogen, or with composts, leaf mold, manures,
and other such sources.
Dealing With Sandy Soils
A truly sandy soil will feel gritty when rubbed between
the fingers. Most sandy soils have at least a little clay
and silt in them, but insufficient amounts of clay,
especially, to hold nutrients and water. Structure of
sandy soils may be either loose or, with an insufficient or
“wrong” amount of smaller particles and organic matter,
hard and crusty and impenetrable to water when dry.
They are inherently low in plant nutrients and good tilth.
Sandy soils can be much improved by “diluting” with
good soil and/or organic matter. The amendment(s)
should be thoroughly worked into the top six or more
inches of the soil, as deeply as possible.

It is wrong to assume that a sandy soil is well drained. If
the sand is underlaid by a compacted layer drainage can
be a serious problem.
Generally, in sandy soils fertilizer should be applied in
lesser amounts but more frequently to avoid loss by
leaching and contaminating ground water. This is more
important with water-soluble inorganic than organic
fertilizers.
Soil Testing
Testing your soil is a good way to determine the pH
(acidity or alkalinity), need for pH correction, and
nutrient content of your soil, with suggestions. A good
soil sample for testing is a composite of samples taken
throughout your garden, then thorougly mixed together
when sufficiently dry by pouring back and forth from one
clean bucket to another. Follow all instructions of the
testing laboratory to which you will submit your soil
sample. One thing you will not learn about your soil from
the test is the soil’s texture, that is, if it is a clay, clay
loam, loam, etc. A few labs, however, can make a
texture test for you for an additional fee.
Generally Speaking
Organic matter will do as much, or more, to improve a
given soil than most any other practice. Worked deeply
into the soil its effects can often be seen for years to
follow. The only real “downside” in using organic matter
is the nitrogen imbalance that high lignin materials can

present, and the potential for insect, weed, and disease
problems of some organic sources. Seldom do the
problems outweigh the benefits.
Keep in mind that working a soil when it is excessively
wet or when excessively dry should be avoided. When
too wet the soil structure is broken down, causing
puddling or “plastic remolding.” When too dry the soil is
ground or pulverized into dust, also causing a breakdown
of structure. In between lies a rather narrow range of
wetness for optimal cultivation of the soil.
Improving your soil – make it enjoyable and watch your
garden grow!

Tall Talk Article by Wilbur Bluhm - March, 2002 file:///C:/Data/WebPages/TBIS-web/tt0302b.html
1-11 of 11 1/10/2012 11:34 AM

These are not my words but are my thoughts :)
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I Wormapost

I cannot tell you how much organic refuse we create in this day at my household.
In an attempt to eat better, we do make a fair amount of refuse.
In having to peel certain superstore purchased foods due to commercial coatings.
But alas I have employed several thousand refuse workers to tend to this problem.
Thankfully I came into a broken large chest style freezer.
Here is where the magic takes place.
I simply feed my workers in a box formation from corner to corner covering each weeks
organic refuse.
These amazing creatures supply me with plenty of nutrient rich material for all my
gardening needs.

It is possibly the easiest and quickest way to recycle into usable composted material.
If you have leaves and grass clippings, they love them too.
I even add a little bit of shredded black and white newspaper from time to time to buffer the
wettness. It mseems to keep things at a consistant state and adds a little bulk.
I have a complete a - z listing of Composting Do's and Donts
I wouldn't give anything to my worms you couldn't regualrly compost safely.

My worms are getting a kick this week with a little starbucks coffee grounds.
I intend to give them a 25 gallon bucket of houre manure too.
I like to give things a good feed inthe beginning of July, to make them stronger for the
harsher, everchanging weathers of SC.

check out this site for that information
http://buffy6900.tripod.com/id10.html

Weak Wormy Tea is excellent for watering your seedlings. Make them happy from the start

I am going to try and get a pic to add here before the day is through ;)

Green It Forward
EarthSource Services
Victoria

Earth Is NOT A Disposable Planet

I am hopping upon my soapbox this A.M. because I am just disgusted at the number of the population that wears the Green Shield but with not a care in the world about actual daily Green practice of some kind to Save the Planet.
Wearing conservationalist tshirts and carring a couple cases of bottled water in the trunk does not a EcoWarrior make. Kind of Contradictory since plastic bottles are a problem in landfills.
Those of you who purchase the reusable shopping bags and put the plastic one inside them, kind of a joke isn't it...?

Buying foods from a grocery or superstore are everyday practice and there are some things you can get nowhere else, but when I ask our future (kids) where your veggies come from and 75% respond with WalMart it absolutely breaks my heart. As it should others too.

It is sad that the family unit is not what it used to be. It was once a standard practice, to teach the children how to do things that were meaningful to family, home, & body. Things were done with togetherness, a pride in heritage, and a thirst for knowledge. Now a trip to the superstore results in alot of unhealthy habits being instilled. Convenience does not have a Conscience.

A starting point in solving alot of the issues today, starts with kids of tomorrow. In history every generation has had a choice of poisons for the populations, envoronmentally, mentally, socially, and physically. If I am not mistaken it is from some unnatural chemical. From Genetically Modified Organisms, to Artificial additives into all sorts of different living venues. I do not believe Science is required a long enough testing window to accurately access the outcome of llongterm build up of their Frankenstein Products.

But back to my original thought, Kids need to be made knowledgable of their foods, origins, additives, unknowns. Educational tools are being removed from the systems cirriculum that are vital for children to be knowledgable and make better decisions. School lunchroom are an atrocity, and it is such a joke that alot of kids think chicken is a nugget, a joke I personally do not deem funny.

Children need to let the Growing of their food catch them in the time of their lives when there is the largest sparkle in their eyes. A love for growing and understand that it is a good thing is something that grows stronger when it is nurtured. Families who garden together are healthier in the top most meaning of that word, in all facets of life. Kids needs to feel the life in the soil and watch it feed their food to understand. They also need to meet the farmers in Fresh Markets allow them to really talk, and question. They will increase their level of awareness of the entirety of the world of they are given the proper opportunities. Their questions are important to them, do not discount their validity at any time.
They will grow in the garden, just like the plants, and they will learn to keep the Earth clean from evil contaminates. Grow Green Kids because maybe they will make better decisions than our ancestors, and they will make a difference. It has to start with a few real changes in the parents though, Parents are you willing to teach Green Practices, it takes dilligent consistancy.

I have been guilty of making bad environmental decisions in the past, And yes because of my circumstances and location I do have to visit Walmart But I do try to make a difference by making and teaching my kids the most EcoFriendly and sustaniable ways of doing things. We are lucky enough to live in an area where we can grow our own seasonal vegetables and we do. I have also made it my mission to teach as many children as I can where their food comes from, and I hope it makes that difference we all desperately need to continue to survive on this life pulsating rock called Earth ;)

Do or Do Not.There is No Try. ~ Yoda

The Magic Boo Boo Sock

Children believe in Magic, it is a wonderful thing. Today we are making BooBoo sock (has no connection to the name Honey BooBoo we made these before she was ever a concieved marketing idea)

Anyway This is a good use for mismatched baby socks, I used cuter ones for the out side and a plainer one for the inside.
It can be made for someone as a gift with an explination of what a boo boo sock is, or you can make it with your child and let them cast a spell on the magic beans.
Step 1: find your baby socks

Step 2: find a helper to speak some Magic words over the beans as they fill the sock

A Boo Boo sock takes all the pain away
It turnes the tears into sunlight
Magical Beans with all the powers
To make BooBoo go away for hours.
It is simply a sock with lentils inside sewn up tightly at the top leaving enough room to have a cuff over the outside sock top. I found The Socks are easily filled if stretched over the top of a tall glass or mug

Step 3: sew top of sock

The Outside is just a cushy comfort and keep the inner sock from getting dirty. Not connected just remove and wash.
The outside also keeps just the right amount of cool so the magic beans will work;)
POP a couple in the freezer for minor emergencies, scraped knees, bumps, bruises
Great size for little hands, and super easy to make and use.

JUst for the record The little gal in the pic, had run into a door facing two days earlier, because of immediate administering of a small amount of Olive Oil to the area followed by the Boo Boo sock in 15 minute intervals, we quelled the formation of a dark bruise...it was looking quite swelled & horrid but here we are at day one

and above at day two.
Just a Tip: Olive Oil will cause blood to disperse back into the body and can lesssen bruising.

Hope You All Have A WOnder Ful Day
~V

Fresh Christmas Greenery

Nothing Beats the smell that Fresh Christmas Greenery provides at Christmas-time. Some folks avoid the mess with artificial trees but even they can add a little of the Hominess that actual greenery adds without the clean up if the greenery is properly prepared, not bought too early in advance, and well cared for.
If creating your own greenery masterpieces, be sure what you purchase is fresh or cut your own. Immediately sumberge stems into a solution with a little bit of Preservant mixed as per instructions. Allow greenery to hydrate at least 24 hours before using. Soaking of pre-prepared greenery pieces can last up to two weeks longer then non hydrated pieces, just be sure what you start with is FRESH, sometimes purchased items greens, wreaths, garlands, etc have been sprayed with a shine product which renders the soaking irrelevant because you are not hydrating just getting it wet. Know your Greens are Fresh... ;)

Here is a look at two of my greenery projects this year
this first one was created out of a 5-inch by 7-inch caged piece of Oasis
It was created from the back to the front with the specific purpose of not being to thick to fit inbetween the front and storm doors at my home, sometimes Custon is the Best. The small oasis start created about a 18-inch by 20-inch front door piece, and I thought it really turned out nice.

I suggest wearing gloves when dealing with some of these prickly evergreens.
This particular door decoration contains: Fraser Fir, Juniper, Red Cedar, Anise, Eucalyptus, Nandina leaves, and Berries. The only addition not in place is the string of battery powered lights. it says Christmas and if it happens to last longer I can just change the color of the bow into the New Year. Oasis is the bomb, you can even use it in plates on a table for centerpieces, get your florist to sell you a casket topper and make a tree-mendouus mantel piece decoration. I say to use this because it can be docorated on one side, has a resorvoir in case you have to add hydration, it's just the perfect size.The smaller oasis cagese can also be filled and turned sideways for a great Mailbox decoration with a great bown on top.

I also added greenery in floral water picks into a wreath that was already created and it just made it more beautiful, Hopefully today I can get motivated to string out a little garland, to complete the real green look over out front doorway, we've never done that before.

I hope you all enjoy this, I have not been on is a spell due to illness, but I think things are on the Upswing. Have a Merry Christmas ~V

Recycle an Old Jar into a Decorative Night Light

When Home for the Holidays I am always on the lookout for quick, easy and attractive projects for the kids to work on whilst I am working around the house. This onw would be a great one for older kids with little supervision. But for younger ones they need tobe supervised.

What You Need :
Tape or Stickers, Spray Paint, exacto knife, Flameless tea lights, old glass jar to recycle.

What To Do:
Place tape in various places or stickers onto the glass jar surface. If using tape cut desired designs into tape and peel away excess. Spray paint entire outside of jar desired color (we used Gold in the photo) and wait about an hour to dry to touch, and remove the stickers/tape. Allow to dry and then place flameless Tea Lights into the jar...Viola...A very cool recycled lamp. You could use these as party decore if you added a bit of wire to the rim and hang in clusters. Or use them on individual tables with other festive decor. Try using different sixed jars maybe with letters on them to spell out a special message any time of the year ;)
Enjoy, V~